Around 9:30, I was picked by in a shared taxi to head to Lake Toba. A six-to-nine-hour journey to Parapat passed quickly with a fast-driving, thrill-seeking chauffeur. Thanks to my “Max Verstappen” driver, I arrived there at 3:00 p.m., . At the port, I met my tour operator I had contacted previously, who helped arrange my transport for the next leg of my trip. I took a boat to Tuk Tuk on Samosir Island, a unique place steeped in history. Formed from a massive volcanic eruption 75,000 years ago, Lake Toba is the world’s largest volcanic lake, and Samosir, at its heart, has about 123 villages and is home to the Toba Batak people.

After checking into my hostel, I wandered around Tuk Tuk, and I arranged for a private driver the next day to tour the area, as I wasn't yet ready to ride a scooter myself.

My guide, Obby, surprised me with his wealth of knowledge and passion for his community. He took me to traditional Batak villages, shared stories of ancient rituals, and gave me insights into the Batak’s unique spiritual beliefs. Despite the heavy tourist presence, his storytelling kept me captivated, especially as we explored historical sites like a stone courtroom and execution area where old Batak rulers once conducted ceremonial trials.

Wanting to experience the “real” Indonesia, I asked him to take me off the beaten path. He took me to a small village known for its weavers and traditional crafts. There, we met a volunteer teaching English. When rain started, we sheltered in her Batak home, sharing coffee and stories. Later, we visited a tilapia fishery with stunning views of Bukit Holbung, locally known as the "Teletubby Hill" for its four distinct peaks. As we continued, we passed a giant statue of Jesus, taller than Rio's Christ the Redeemer, After asking “why not stop?” he laugh and pointed out jokingly, I wanted to avoid the tourist spots. Score: 1-0 for my guide.

At a remote Batak village shielded by bamboo fences, Obby explained that these structures once protected villagers from spirits and colonizers alike. We also stopped at a waterfall, where I unexpectedly embraced tree-hugging under spiritual guidance, finding peace in nature’s presence. Later, we practiced “Prana,” a local energy exchange ritual, which left me feeling a mysterious connection.

As rain returned, we sheltered again, but the weather didn’t dampen our spirits. We continued exploring, stopping at a hidden coffee bar for a warm cup of Arabica. The day ended with a scenic return ride to Tuk Tuk, where I reflected on our 118-kilometer journey filled with unforgettable moments. The experience, including lunch and small donations, cost just €40 and left me feeling deeply grateful for Obby’s guidance and the personal transformation it inspired. By the end, I felt I’d gained not just memories but a lifelong friend.

This touching adventure came to me with tears on a local bus to my next stop, thinking of all I’d experienced and the kindness of the people who made my journey so remarkable.